Article Written By: Esmé Schmidt
It’s something that the likes of the Kardashians and Britney Spears to Disney stars Vanessa Hudgens and Selena Gomez have been slated for online, and I am not talking sex tapes. Cultural appropriation is constantly being confronted in the fashion industry as an issue that has society divided. It has been argued that a ‘sensitive younger generation’ are just searching for more reasons to call out celebrities in an overly-woke social environment. But does cultural appropriation actually underpin the problematic realities of Western society’s imperial past?
In light of a decade of fashion coming to a close, the issue of misappropriation is becoming more recognised for its socio-political importance in the industry. With the notorious Victoria’s Secret fashion show finally being cancelled, it was not only their limited body inclusivity that put them in hot water. The 2017 show in Shanghai included a “nomadic adventures” segment, which featured a number of “tribal” and “Native American” themed pieces. No one can forget when Nadine Leopold took to the catwalk wearing a feathered headband, not dissimilar to a traditional war bonnet which usually holds the historical symbolism for respect and bravery. The outfit was almost identical to Karlie Kloss’ 2012 runway look at the show that received criticism for its cultural insensitivity, and the brand’s repeat offences show a disrespect for minority groups in the US. By commodifying symbols of cultural importance, the VS show mocks American Indian culture.
It can be easy to cause offence if the perpetrator is unaware of the cultural value a certain symbol or style holds for a specific group of people. It was unclear who was to blame for Victoria’s Secret’s fashion show faux pas, some turning on Kloss and Leopold instead of the lingerie giant. But if their objectives were innocent, then where does the problem lie? When Kim Kardashian West announced on Twitter that she would be renaming her recent shapewear range, after the backlash she received for trying to trademark the term “Kimono”, the businesswomen tweeted: “I announced the name of my shapewear line… with the best intentions in mind.”However, with such an influential social presence, a lack of knowledge is not an excuse for her lack of consideration for the cultural importance the misused term holds to Japanese culture. This only stresses a central concern that exists within the conversation of cultural appropriation, that offenders are ignorant to the inequalities that still exist in modern society. If we can all identity blackface as highly problematic and misplaced in a progressive society, then where do we draw the line with other racial misappropriation?
I took to Instagram to ask 85 individuals, from different cultural backgrounds, to distinguish which style choices ranging from celebrities’ outfits to online retailer clothing lines, constituted ‘cultural appropriation’ for them. More than 70% agreed that wearing dreadlocks and corn rows, commonly associated as ‘black hairstyles’, and orchestrated by Kim Kardashian West and Cara Delavigne in the images chosen, epitomised cultural appropriation. However, only 46% of people agreed that Little Mix’s recent clothing range with online retailer Pretty Little Thing denoted cultural appropriation, despite the ‘Chinese-inspired’ clothing receiving criticism on social media. Is this because some cultures are seen as more precious than others in Western society?
With a history of institutionalised racism, and the afro-centric persecution at the centre of Britain and America’s colonial past, disrespectful appropriation of elements of black culture are easily identifiable. However, does this just turn a blind eye to the hyper-sexualisation of Asian clothing that Little Mix’s collection perpetuates. With many of the clothes described as ‘Oriental’ on PLT’s site, a problematic reduction of Chinese culture to exoticism is enacted. This underlines the deep-rooted history of the Western gaze fetishizing and ‘othering’ Eastern women and is no less problematic than stereotypes reinforced about other racial groups.
Could the mixed ethnic backgrounds of Little Mix’s members have an influence on how their collection is received? Michael Gordon, a personal trainer from South East London, gave me his insight on the topic: “cultural appropriation exists when the culture doing the appropriating is viewed, or has been viewed, as superior to the other”. It is for this reason, why the accused appropriation of culture by white individuals proves most problematic, as they represent the dominant culture, appropriating the minority. The results also substantiate the importance placed on the appropriation of hairstyles, over other style choices, specifically for black communities.
The controversy around ‘black hair’ is highly relevant in the conversation of cultural appropriation as black women have been persecuted for their hairstyle for years throughout history. Chanté Griffin, an African American writer for the Washington Post, explains in her article: “How Natural Black Hair at Work Became a Civil Rights Issue”, that black women first wore wigs in imitation of their enslavers and covered their hair in rags due to demands of gruelling field work. Griffin also observes that the first African American millionaire was a women who created a hair-straightening comb to “tame” black hair, whilst this gave black women an opportunity for “social acceptance” the invention mocks the hair texture of African Americans, and she was called out by activist Marcus Garvey who said “don’t remove the kinks from your hair! Remove them from your brain!”. As wearing an Afro became a symbol of the fight for racial equality, it also became a symbol of unprofessionalism.
Griffin perpetuates that even now, in 2019, U.S. courts are still divided about the right of African Americans to wear their natural hair in the workplace. Therefore, when black women are not accused of appropriating white culture when they wear weave, this does not represent a double standard of cultural appropriation; but instead the ongoing fight against a white dominant oppressive culture for black women.
The important question to ask is: can adopting features from another culture ever be acceptable in society? Yazz Bhandari, co-editor in chief of Fabrik magazine, recognises the artistic license associated with embracing styles associated with specific communities. Yazz told me “because of historical context there is controversy around adopting hair styles from another’s culture, but when its makeup looks, artistry and even cultural outfits, you can appreciate it without appropriating it. Many interracial relationships showcase this”. This is why, when Nick Jonas announced his engagement to America-Indian actress Priyanka Chopra, no one called out the Jonas Brother for donning Indian clothing and wearing Kumkum powder on his forehead. This was not interpreted as misappropriation because the cultural symbols in question are not being stripped off their historical significance.
In order to appreciate another culture, there has to be respect, knowledge and cultural relevance at work throughout. Similarly, in Nicki Minaj’s ‘Chun Li’ video and album cover, her adoption of symbols of Chinese culture paid homage to the Street Fighter character of the same name, who like Nicki, represents the only female in a male-dominated game. Nicki recognised ‘Chun Li’s’ symbolic power in an unequal industry and embraced the style for recognition of the same purpose for her own self. Nicki’s interpretation showed respect and cultural appreciation as well as addressing a prominent issue in the music business.
Just because well-respected retailors approve a look does not mean it isn’t your social responsibility to stand against the ignorance of fast fashion brands, you should be an independent thinker when it comes to your style. Although it is important to remember that you can pay homage to another culture without disrespect. This means being well educated on cultural symbols and respecting the histories of minority groups, regardless of how some celebrities choose to dress. However, if you are even having to question whether a clothing or hair style choice you are planning to serve could cause offence to a specific culture, then chances are it probably could.
Article Written By: Esmé Schmidt
Comments